Double Pleated Trousers in Charcoal Cotton Twill

On this pair of pants I tried out a double-pleated front to help add some comfort in the upper leg. I started with Vogue’s V1996A (which only has one pleat) and made some quick-and-dirty adjustments.

I tested out an unusual welted pocket construction on the back pockets in an attempt to mimic ready-to-wear garments. [Edit 2025-06-03: I’ve found a video that shows the process. They work scary fast.] First, I basted the pocket bag lining to the inside of the garment, then I installed the welts such that the cut pocket edges are enclosed in the pocket bag after being turned inside. It did not turn out very well, and I ended up sewing the back pockets shut.

Another construction note is that I’ve found a zipper fly installation method that I really like, because it allows me to bind the seams in a way that other methods do not.

Unfortunately, this project was pretty much killed by my fabric choice. Before washing off the sizing, the fabric had an excellent drape and sheen. After washing, however, it felt almost identical to quilting cotton, and it really showed in the final garment. Oh well, at least it was some good practice!