Women's Unlined Coat in Melton

This is a coat I made for my mom’s birthday. The time constraint meant that I had to improvise a lot on this one!

The fabric is a lovely (and expensive!) Melton that I still wouldn’t have cut by now if not for the due date. I used Butterick’s B6385, except I did not include the body lining. I also replaced some of the turned edges with bias tape finishes to reduce bulk. The interior seams use a Hong Kong finish (even though Melton doesn’t fray much at all).

This is the first project where I ended up doing a lot of hand stitching. The thickness of the Melton really lets you stitch just about any way you want without it showing on the other side of the fabric.

  1. The binding on the collar, pocket openings, and hem were hand stitched to the wrong side
  2. All seams and facings were hand-felled down
  3. Topstitching was done by hand in a thick thread (I really liked the result of this)
  4. All keyhole buttonholes were done by hand
  5. Lining pieces had to be hand stitched as well because I didn’t do research on how half-lined garments are supposed to be constructed (actually, I still haven’t… maybe they really do just hand stitch it).
  6. In many seams, hand basting was needed for testing fit to compensate for a not-so-thorough toile fitting.

Needless to say I spent quite a bit of time stitching with movies playing in the background.

Overall, I’m really happy with the results, and I think I will be more willing to freestyle in the future if it means getting more projects under my belt!