Cá Kho

Sweet and richly flavored Vietnamese braised fish.

• Firm, mild white fish (e.g. swai, catfish), cut into steaks.
• Sugar, salt, black pepper (opt.), fish sauce
• Green onion whites, cut into small lengths; crushed/sliced garlic; crushed/sliced chili peppers (opt.); shallot (opt.). Optionally sautéed.
• Oil or rendered pork fat; sugar (or add nước màu to marinade; see notes)

Marinade the fish with seasonings and a generous dressing of fish sauce. Aromatics can be added to the marinade as well. Set aside.

In a shallow pot with a base just wide enough to fit fish in a single layer, add a bit of oil and enough sugar to lightly cover the base. Caramelize the sugar, stirring if needed, very deeply until just before it will burn. Carefully add some water or marinade to stop the cooking and cover while it sputters violently. Add everything to the pot, including the marinade, arranging the fish in a single layer. Cover and let the fish briefly steam as it releases liquid. Add water or coconut water to cover 3/4th’s of the fish if necessary. Braise, covered, for half an hour.

Carefully flip the fish and continue to braise uncovered until the liquid reduces into a sauce. Occasionally baste the fish if you have the time. It should be deeply colored on both sides, fatty, and have a strong sweet and savory flavor. Serve with rice and accompanying dishes to balance it out.

Notes

Instead of caramelizing sugar on the fly as I do, the color of this dish is usually given by adding nước màu (or a similarly sweet, dark-brown store-bought condiment) to the marinade. If doing this, you then have the freedom to saute the aromatics in the pot if desired.

Additionally, if cooking in a traditional clay pot, you will need to use nước màu and should not try and saute anything unless it’s in a separate pan. Just add everything and braise. It is much easier to just reserve the clay pot as a heated serving vessel if desired.