Phở

Vietnamese noodle soup with a clean, aromatic beef broth base.

For the broth (1 stockpot):

• 2 onions; 1 hand of ginger, bruised — All well-charred by flame or broiler and rinsed of blackened bits
• Beef bones (e.g. leg bones), some preferably with marrow
• Meat, in two categories:
  • Stewed: Bone-in cuts with lots of connective tissue (e.g. beef shin, oxtail), cooked until tender and served in chunks
  • Boiled: Boneless cuts that shouldn’t be overcooked (e.g. chuck, brisket), to be served sliced against the grain
• Spices, whole and toasted. In order of importance:
  • 5 star anise pods
  • 6 cloves
  • 1 stick cinnamon
  • 1 pod black cardamom
  • Coriander seeds
  • Fennel seeds
• Salt; yellow rock sugar (or white sugar); fish sauce; pinch of MSG

For the bowls:

• Rice noodles (fresh), soaked in hot water or parboiled
• Raw beef (e.g. flank, sirloin), thinly sliced. Easier to slice when very cold
• Meat and tendons from broth
• Any additional meat toppings (e.g. beef meatballs, tripe, etc.)
• White onions; green onions — both thinly sliced
• On the side: Bean sprouts; Thai basil; culantro; lime; hoisin sauce; sriracha sauce; etc.

To purify scum, cover bones (and optionally broth meat) in water and bring to a vigorous boil for a couple minutes. Dump water and rinse bones/meat clean. Simmer all broth ingredients for about 5 hours, but take the non-stewing meats out early after 1.5-2 hours and refrigerate covered under cold water to prevent drying out (or wrap in plastic after soaking in water). This meat will not be the most tender; added texture is the goal.

Strain broth. Pick out meat and anything else to serve, including tendons and bones with marrow. Maintain broth at a simmer, season, and reduce/dilute as necessary.

To serve, place noodles and toppings in a bowl and ladle in very hot broth.

Notes:

• Fennel tends to get stuck in meat crevices. If using, keep spices in a sachet.
• I like to freeze individual portions (without toppings). For one bowl:
  • 480g broth
  • Portioned stewed meat
  • 100-130g noodles, frozen separately